Two separate trips, five years apart. Angkor's tree-rooted temples are the tourist's first target — I stayed instead with men waiting in Siem Reap barber queues, with families swaying on Battambang's bamboo train, with children swimming to school in the floating villages of Tonlé Sap. Behind the Khmer Rouge trauma of the 1970s there is still a gentle, soft-spoken people. Threshold to threshold, each quiet, each still a little wounded.
Cambodia
Cambodia
