Indonesia

Twelve years, four visits, an island-by-island memory. Crater smoke at dawn on Java's Bromo, the bicycle-lined back streets of Yogyakarta, rainy afternoons in Ubud and rice-field festivals in Bali, jungle markets in Sumatra, the clap-stroke oars of Komodo fishermen. Indonesia is not a country but an archipelago — the language changes, the cooking changes, even the light changes. Each time I found a different Indonesia; each time the same warm, smiling openness.